Dim Dim Sum in Windermere may look like Awkwafina’s next Comedy Central vehicle, but in fact, it’s a vehicle to make the whole of Isleworth feel like it’s getting a heavy dose of culture. You won’t find the same clientele that you would see in dim sum mainstays like Peter’s Kitchen, KaiKai, Lam’s Garden, Ming’s Bistro or Chuan Lu Garden, or that you would have seen in the recently closed Chan’s Chinese Cuisine, but you can get a glimpse of its former boss, Tony Yeung. Yeung ran Chan’s kitchen for almost a quarter of a century until it closed a year ago. It’s now on the Easy Street, offering a relatively terse, concentrated 40-item menu of dim sum’s biggest hits.
But, come on, no chicken feet? What’s a dim sum without that delicious suction of bone and collagen? I’m telling you, Windermere, get up! Insist that menu item 41 be chicken feet! Shout it out from your clay tile roofs! Shout it out from your Bentley Continental GT convertibles! Then drop your Amex black card after enjoying a few small Cantonese platters (not served from a cart, unfortunately) in the barely dark, in fact quite bright confines of Dim Dim Sum.
“It used to be Italian cuisine from Spoleto,” notes my dining room mate. He is right. We couldn’t help but notice that much of the interior decor, all the way down (or up) to the art feature of the frying pan hanging from the ceiling, has remained. The prices were also remarkable, at least for us. Now, they probably won’t make those who live in the neighborhood frown, but seasoned dim sumiers may be hesitant to drop $ 6.50 for a trio of shrimp-pork or xiao long bao siu mai dumplings. All the more so given the old funk of the first and the total blandness of the last. While there are no such failures in the minced cucumber and garlic bowl, this side bracing costs $ 5.50. If you get it, skip a bite or two after eating bigger dishes, like the fun beef chow ($ 9.95) with a wonderful wok essence, or glistening pieces of roast duck ($ 9.95) .
Steamed rice rolls are a staple on my dim sum menu. Their delicate, slippery tubular casing can test a chef’s courage (and test the dexterity of a chopstick user). But the rollers here not only lacked that attractive translucency, the folding technique also seemed to be done in a hurry. The deep pool of sweet soy sauce they sat in only accelerated their disintegrating qualities. Compared to the ones I enjoyed just three weeks ago at the oddly named Providential 9 in Markham, Ont., They are paling.
The Fried Sesame Balls ($ 5.50), on the other hand, were all the soft, chewy, oily orbs they’re meant to be. They’re also a little sweet, so if you don’t like tossing sweet and savory dim sum together, just switch to seared turnip cakes ($ 5.50) or steamed pork dumplings and save the dumplings for more. late.
That said, there are other sweet spheres to salivate over, namely the gorgeous Black Gold Cream Brioches ($ 5.50) with their oozing cores, and the Mexican Cream Brioche (5.50 $), a Hong Kong staple. If you’re wondering what’s ‘Mexican’, the sweet bun was modeled after the Mexican conch by a couple who returned to Hong Kong after being deported from Mexico. Hmm, that looks like another vehicle for Awkwafina. In any case, order the $ e bitche $. We swallowed them up, and you probably will too.
Yes, they are more expensive, but hey, even in this neighborhood, you don’t have to be a fool to enjoy Asian food.