Cantonese pub

Fay Maschler: What landed on my plate this week


In early 2012, I heard about a new restaurant called Dabbous. It seemed like a definitely, almost provocative, unpromising name to me, but I was revised because it was new and within walking distance of where I live. I was back there for lunch the next day. Young Ollie Dabbous – explains the name – seemed to me not only an immensely talented and intelligent chef, but also someone who had within his grasp the spirit of what Parisian chefs called at the time. bistronomy – high-octane cuisine, a sober setting, friendly, low-starch service. I gave five stars to Dabbous, my best rating, attributed I explained when a restaurant arrives that changes the game. Ollie now cooks at Hide in Piccadilly in conjunction with Russia-owned Hedonism Wines. I meet my son Ben, owner of The Compass Inn near Tisbury in Wiltshire, for a meal at To hide. I want him to experience Ollie’s cooking. “Mom, we better stick to the fixed lunch” (£ 38 for two courses excluding sides) are Ben’s first words. We do, but we are not denied anything of the beauty close to the beauty of Ollie’s new leadership or the enthusiastic embrace of the potential of plant life. My first choice of Baked pumpkin with orange blossom, grilled macadamia and pandan leaf broth is a soup full of delicious discoveries. There is now a beautiful book Essential by Ollie Dabbous published last month.

hide.co.uk


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