Chinese cuisine

In the bamboo garden of Inchin, to discover the meeting of India and China | To eat

On a world map, India and China share a 2,000 mile border. On a menu of world cuisines, they are often layered, linked by the Silk Road spice merchants for a delicious effect.

Bamboo partitions separate the tables in Inchin’s bamboo garden.

Sharon Cantillon / Buffalo News

About three centuries ago, a wave of Chinese launched themselves into new life in Kolkata, or Calcutta, the capital of the state of West Bengal in India. The restaurateurs among them figured out how to modify classic Chinese dishes and harness indigenous ingredients, creating another sub-genre of Chinese cuisine.

The United States got General Tso’s chop suey, egg foo yung, and chicken from their enterprising Chinese immigrants. India got dishes like lamb dumplings in a tasty cream of tomato cream, sweet and sour paneer, and Singapore rice noodles, sautéed with curry oil.

Now, these crossover classics are available in Amherst, along with a host of more purely Indian or Chinese fare, at a place called Inchin’s Bamboo Garden.

Owners Jyot and Bobby Walia discuss their Chinese-Indian fusion restaurant in Amherst.

The spacious rooms in the square, including a bar and a private dining area, have been fitted with stone soldiers, bamboo partitions and acres of brown wood.

Inchin’s Bamboo Garden will let you stick to the Indian and Chinese basics, if you prefer. Potato-stuffed samosa turnovers (2 / $ 6) and crispy fried spring rolls stuffed with shredded cabbage, carrots and bell peppers (3 / $ 8) paint in the usual lines.

Not so Chinese bhel ($ 12), the Indian salad of crispy fried noodles and grated vegetables, cucumber, onion and tomato, garnished with soy sauce, garlic and chili sauce. It’s a juicy, catchy vegan side dish with a kick.

Lamb butter masala momos at the bamboo garden of Inchin

Lamb Butter Momos Masala from Inchin Bamboo Garden are deep-fried lamb dumplings topped with butter masala sauce, cream, tomato and spices.

Sharon Cantillon / Buffalo News

Momos ($ 3/8) are Tibetan-style dumplings, a bit larger than standard potstickers, stuffed with vegetables, chicken, or lamb. They are offered in four types. Steamed and fried are self-explanatory.

Szechwan is another option, but in Indochinese cuisine it doesn’t mean lip numbing pepper and Chilean oil locks like the Szechuan dishes of China. It’s more akin to a sweet and sour ginger garlic ketchup with lingering heat.

Stone soldiers stand guard at Inchin bamboo garden

Large statues of soldiers flank a fountain near the entrance.

Sharon Cantillon / Buffalo News

The last option was by far my favorite momo: masala butter. The fried lamb meatballs sprinkled with lightly spiced aromatic tomato cream made me regret ordering mo ‘momos.

But there were so many other things to try.

Manchow Chicken Soup ($ 6) features ginger as a regular chicken companion, in a blackened soy broth with chopped onion and plenty of fresh herbs.

Vegetarians have more than tofu to choose from here. Kung pao paneer ($ 16) is one of my favorite Indo-Chinese crossovers. Cubes of firm homemade cheese replace the chicken, while the rest of the act remains the same. They are sautéed in a fiery blend of ginger, garlic and chili pepper, to which are added celery, water chestnuts and peanuts.

Paneer Tacos at Inchin Bamboo Garden

Paneer tacos are made with crumbled paneer, carrots, cabbage, Mexican and goat cheeses and sriracha.

Sharon Cantillon / Buffalo News

Paneer tacos (3 / $ 13) loop in Mexican notions by filling crispy corn shells with crumbled paneer, the mild Indian cheese, along with carrots, cabbage, goat cheese and all things, sriracha ranch.

Singapore Rice Noodles ($ 15 to $ 17 for the vegetable, seafood, and meat versions) brings the union of India and China to the fore with thin rice noodles and grated vegetables cooked in wok in curry oil, coming out of smoked and golden turmeric.

Burnt Garlic Chili Fried Rice at Inchin Bamboo Garden

Burnt Garlic Chili Fried Rice is made with golden fried garlic and crushed dried chili. This is the vegetable version, but there are meat and shrimp options as well.

Sharon Cantillon / Buffalo News

Burnt Garlic Chili Fried Rice ($ 14- $ 16) was another flavor bomb and a sure-fire way for the heart of a garlic lover with a significant tolerance to spices. There are carrot shreds and chopped green onion chunks to freshen up the forks, and enough flavor to enhance the sparkle. It is marked with an asterisk on the menu, denoting a spicy dish.

Lamb Sambal at Inchin Bamboo Garden

The Sambal lamb is served in a chili sauce.

Sharon Cantillon / Buffalo News

Lamb sambal ($ 20) is marked with two asterisks (“very spicy”) on the menu, and it honestly came with those asterisks. The boneless lamb slices are marinated in chili-based sambal, with celery, onion and garlic, seared and served on a hot plate with a tea light inside to keep them warm.

Coal in Newcastle, I thought, as sweat trickled down my neck, seeking another bite as the pleasure quenched the pain.

Lamb Keema at Inchin Bamboo Garden

Lamb keema is ground lamb, peas, onion, tomato, and cilantro with a side of paratha or rice.

Sharon Cantillon / Buffalo News

Another lamb dish widely praised by the table was lamb keema ($ 20), a relatively dry meat dish served with rice or paratha, a toasted, flaky whole wheat flatbread. Squeeze the lime wedge onto the dish and line the flatbread with your own Indian lamb tacos.

Chili mustard fish at the bamboo garden of Inchin

The Chilli Mustard Fish is made with tilapia fillet, peppers, onions, mustard, chili and cream.

Sharon Cantillon / Buffalo News

The Chilli Mustard Fish ($ 18) brings a fillet of tilapia delicately cooked in a tangy mustard cream, presented on a nest of grated carrots and lettuce leaves. Her cheeky warmth lingered but didn’t hurt. Chili Shrimp ($ 20), on the other hand, brings two asterisk smoke in the form of jumbo shrimp sautéed in a bright tomato-based sauce that’s sweet at first, then with a serious flamethrower.

Desserts include competent renditions of gulab jamun, golf ball-sized donuts dipped in syrup and rasmalai, crumbly, cardamom-flavored cheese discs topped with cream and almonds ($ 6 each ).

Our waiter answered questions about the menu and got customer questions answered without complaint.

Slip down to Williamsville Place to explore the culinary sensations that traveled the Silk Road to Sheridan Drive.

5415 Sheridan Drive, Amherst (580-3032,

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Friday; from noon to 3 p.m. and from 5 to 10 p.m. on Saturdays; from noon to 3 p.m. and from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. on Sunday. Closed on Mondays.

Prices: appetizers, $ 6- $ 13; entrees, $ 14 – $ 20.

Atmosphere: peaceful exploration area

Wheelchair accessible: yes

Gluten-free options: lots of choice.

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