Cantonese restaurant

Japanese restaurant Kazan Dining opens at 25 Martin Place

CBD offices may not have returned to pre-pandemic occupancy levels, but that hasn’t dampened Sydney’s seemingly insatiable appetite for restaurant launches.

Japanese restaurant Kazan Dining opened on Wednesday June 8 at 25 Martin Place, already home to newcomers Aalia, Botswana Butchery and White + Wongs.

This is the team behind Canberra It-restaurant Inka’s first foray into Sydney. But some may remember co-owner Kiehyon Yoo as the opening managing director of Toko, which recently closed in Surry Hills before moving to the CBD.

The signature sushi selection in Kazan. Photo: Louise Kennerley

“Kazan was a Japanese emperor known as a peacemaker and artist,” Yoo explains. “It’s also the Japanese word for volcano.”

The circular restaurant mirrors a volcano, with the ceiling acting as the central design element.

The interior design is a riff on kumiko, a traditional Japanese woodworking technique with ornate geometric patterns. Yoo says they had to be careful when rebuilding so as not to disturb the Harry Seidler-designed building.

There is no such restraint in the kitchen. Chef Shinya Nakano, a Kyoto-trained sushi chef who also worked at Kisume in Melbourne, has been licensed for the food.

“We make a Japanese version of Cantonese fish cooked with ginger and shallot,” Yoo explains. “The snapper is steamed with sake. And there’s a slow-cooked Angus tenderloin simmered on the robata grill with a slice of foie gras on top.”

Meanwhile, the search for a home in Sydney for Inka continues. Yoo is hesitant to reveal where he will be heading, but Inka’s team has been spotted visiting the main harbor sites.

Open for lunch and dinner from Tuesday to Saturday.

Shop 8.01, 25 Martin Place, Sydney, 02 8080 8074